Gummer’s How

Gummer's How view to Windermere and the Coniston Fells
View from Raven's Barrow - Cartmel Fell
View from Raven’s Barrow – Cartmel Fell

Gummer’s How, Finsthwaite Heights, Bigland Barrow, Staveley Fell and Raven’s Barrow (Cartmel Fell) – Route Introduction

Gummer’s How, Finsthwaite Heights, Bigland Barrow, Staveley Fell and Cartmel Fell are five walks featured in Alfred Wainwright’s Outlying Fells of Lakeland book. The original routes hike the five fells individually, but this single round visits all five summits in the Lake District National Park. This route card is a fantastic option for someone peak bagging the Outlying Fells of Lakeland.

Adventurer Nic walked this route on Monday 28th December 2020. These were Outlier numbers 108 to 112 of 116 for Nic. Here, she explains how you can bag these outlying fells too.

Gummer’s How Route Stats

Fells: Staveley Fell (265m), Raven’s Barrow – Cartmel Fell (152m), Gummer’s How (321m), Finsthwaite Heights (180m) and Bigland Barrow (193m).

Total Distance: 27km / 16.8miles

Total Ascent: 830m / 2,700ft

Approx Walk Time: 10 hours

Grid Reference Start: SD 381852

Gummer’s How Route Report

The Lead Up

A few days earlier we’d hiked a circuit including Howes and Seat Robert in the far eastern Lake District. I chose Gummer’s How and the four fells close to the southern tip to Windermere for my penultimate Outlying Fells of Lakeland hike, and I was joined by my boyfriend James and friend Katie.

Staveley Fell Ascent

View towards Finsthwaite Heights at blue hour
View towards Finsthwaite Heights at blue hour

The start point for this walk was the same as the start point for Newton Fell (North) – a layby opposite the ‘Chapel House – Forestry England’ sign. We followed the wide track up into the woods. After 400m we took a footpath that was grassy, muddy and steep. This opened up at the top and we got a sneak peak of Finsthwaite Heights. It was early and the views were all tinged with blue.

Fingerpost with Windermere in the background
Fingerpost with Windermere in the background

We followed the finger post to the north, appreciating the slight pink glow over Windermere. The path forked down to the left to join the wider track and we walked along this as it weaved to the north east. We were deep in conversation, catching up on each other’s Christmas breaks.

Wide trails as we headed towards Staveley Fell
Wide trails as we headed towards Staveley Fell

Ignoring the right hand turn off for the Simpson Ground Reservoir, we kept to the main track until we were almost parallel with the summit of Staveley Fell.

Ascending Staveley Fell
Ascending Staveley Fell

From here, we weaved our way up the open fellside, being careful not to twist our ankles over the uneven ground.

Staveley Fell Summit

Summit of Staveley Fell looking over Windermere
Summit of Staveley Fell looking over Windermere

As we reached the summit of Staveley Fell, the skies beyond Windermere were glowing up in the morning sun. The frosty ground shimmered and the lake appeared still.

The summit of Staveley Fell was marked by a cairn.

Descending Staveley Fell
Descending Staveley Fell

Staveley Fell Descent

To descend, we headed off to the north east to follow a wall which led in the direction of main track. As with the ascent, the ground here was uneven, but it was only a short distance back to the track.

Reaching the main track
Reaching the main track

We walked along the track until we reached a crossroads and we went straight on, with Christmas trees all around us.

Following the trail beside the deer fence
Following the trail beside the deer fence

Soon a deer fence rose high on our right hand side and we followed this boundary until it met Sow How Lane.

Cartmel Fell Ascent

Sow How Farm
Sow How Farm

We turned right onto Sow How Lane to the farm at the bottom of the road.

Left turn towards Cartmel Fell
Left turn towards Cartmel Fell

Following signs for the public bridleway, we passed through the farm yard and turned left to follow a farm vehicle track across a field.

Sow How Tarn
Sow How Tarn

We passed through a number of gates along the bridleway as it led past the pretty Sow How Tarn and through Low Wood.

En route to Cartmel Fell
En route to Cartmel Fell

The bridleway weaved past Heights Cottage and west onto the access land for Raven’s Barrow (Cartmel Fell). Here we left the main trail and followed the lumps and bumps to the monument.

Raven’s Barrow – Cartmel Fell Summit

Monument summit of Cartmel Fell
Monument summit of Cartmel Fell

The monument on the summit of Raven’s Barrow (Cartmel Fell) is huge and also has a little seat built into it. From here you can enjoy the views of the surrounding fells. Whitbarrow was over to the east.

Views from Cartmel Fell
Views from Cartmel Fell

Raven’s Barrow – Cartmel Fell Descent

We retraced our steps back to the farm back to Sow How Lane. Just before the main road junction with Fell Foot Brow, we turned left following a finger post marked ‘Gummer’s How 1 mile’.

Finger post to Gummer's How
Finger post to Gummer’s How

When the trail exited out onto the road, we crossed it to begin the ascent of Gummer’s How.

Gummer’ How Ascent

Getting ready to start the climb to Gummer's How
Getting ready to start the climb to Gummer’s How

This area is part of the Higher Level Environmental Stewardship Scheme which means the work is ongoing to preserve the upland vegetation on Gummer’s How as it is of high ecological value.

Ascending Gummer's How
Ascending Gummer’s How

Hardy Luing cattle assist with this, much to cow-fearing James and Katie’s dismay!

The trail up Gummer’s How is well maintained and this was by far the busiest section of trail of the day. Lots of families out enjoying the winter sun between Christmas and New Year.

Small scramble on Gummer's How
Small scramble on Gummer’s How

Just below a crag, the path splits. You can either take the short, easy scramble or stick to the main path on the right. We chose the scramble.

Windermere at it's finest with the Coniston Fells in the distance
Windermere at it’s finest with the Coniston Fells in the distance

Windermere was now a deep, rich hue of blue and the snow dusted Coniston fells looked majestic in the distance.

Lunchtime views over Lake Windermere from Gummer's How
Lunchtime views over Lake Windermere from Gummer’s How

We stopped just short of the summit for lunch.

Gummer’s How Summit

Approaching the summit of Gummer's How
Approaching the summit of Gummer’s How

From our lunch spot, we could see the trig pillar of Gummer’s How, so we walked up to it and paused for a photo.

The highest point of Gummer's How
The highest point of Gummer’s How

We could see all the way down Windemere to Claife Heights, one of my earlier Wainwright’s Outlying Fells walks.

Gummer's How trig pillar
Gummer’s How trig pillar

Gummer’s How Descent

To descend, we headed north east initially, before the trail led down to the south and re-joined the path we’d ascended on.

Descending Gummer's How
Descending Gummer’s How

Luckily for James and Katie, we avoided a cow encounter on Gummer’s How!

Descending Gummer's How
Descending Gummer’s How

When we met the road we walked south down Fell Foot Brow, until we had the opportunity to branch off to the left into the woodland of Fell Foot park.

Woodland Trails as we left Gummer's How to head for Finsthwaite Heights
Woodland Trails as we left Gummer’s How to head for Finsthwaite Heights

We followed an old wall which was covered in moss.

Moss covered walls
Moss covered walls

Fell ponies greeted us to our left before the trail looped to the right onto a bridleway beside Poolfield Wood and out into Staveley-in-Cartmel.

Fell ponies
Fell ponies

We continued west past Millerbeck Light Railway and along the lane.

Millerbeck - Staveley in Cartmel Light Railway
Millerbeck – Staveley in Cartmel Light Railway

This led to a t-junction where we turned left and crossed over to walk along the footpath beside the main road into Newby Bridge.

Newby Bridge
Newby Bridge

Here we crossed the bridge itself and headed left in front of The Swan. We crossed another bridge over the railway line and took the next left following a finger post for ‘Finsthwaite 1 mile’.

Finsthwaite Heights -Ascent

Trails leading up to Finsthwaite Tower
Trails leading up to Finsthwaite Tower

Soon after, at a finger post marked Finsthwaite Summer House Knott we turned right and followed a slim path between two fences.

Surprise view near Finsthwaite Tower
Surprise view near Finsthwaite Tower

This path weaved steeply and reached a look out point just below Finsthwaite Tower, followed by the tower itself.

Finsthwaite Tower
Finsthwaite Tower

The tower is a two-storey folly. The site commemorates the 18th century wars and honours officers of the Royal Navy. You can read more about it on the Imperial War Museum website.

Wide trails through woodland
Wide trails through woodland

From here we headed north and then north-east, along pleasant woodland trails. When we reached a t-junction in the path we turned left.

Katie and James learning about woodland flora and fauna
Katie and James learning about woodland flora and fauna

This path led out of the woodland and over fields into Finsthwaite.

Crossing the fields to Finthswaite
Crossing the fields to Finthswaite

We passed the church and forked left.

St Peter's Church, Finsthwaite
St Peter’s Church, Finsthwaite

Then turned right at the t-junction and left at the finger post marked ‘High Dam’.

Walking through Finsthwaite village
Walking through Finsthwaite village

A slim path led past houses and through a small gate onto a field.

Through the small gate
Through the small gate

We followed the grassy trail and kept heading north, over a bridge that crossed Finsthwaite Beck.

Beginning to ascend towards Finsthwaite Heights
Beginning to ascend towards Finsthwaite Heights

The trail followed the beck uphill before we had the opportunity to cross the beck again higher up.

Bridge over the beck
Bridge over the beck

Finsthwaite Heights Summit

We followed the trail to the south west, passing through a gate until we met the path junction. Here, we branched off the trail to reach what seemed to be the highest point of Finsthwaite Heights.

Adventurer Nic on Finsthwaite Heights
Adventurer Nic on Finsthwaite Heights

Finsthwaite Heights remined me of Dunmallet. A ‘summit’ in the trees.

Finsthwaite Heights Descent

Descending from Finsthwaite Heights
Descending from Finsthwaite Heights

We left to the south, following a trail that passed to the west of Summersides Wood. As we descended, we were treated to a beautiful view of Finsthwaite.

View to Finsthwaite
View to Finsthwaite

We reached the main road and followed it to the left back into Finsthwaite. Opposite the church we turned right to head across the field to the south.

Gate into the field at Finsthwaite
Gate into the field at Finsthwaite

A series of stiles and gates led us past Finsthwaite House and in to Wintering Park.

Trail through Wintering Park
Trail through Wintering Park

We ascended slightly before dropping back down to the place we’d initially peeled off for Finsthwaite Tower. We retraced our steps over Newby Bridge.

Bigland Barrow Ascent

Ascending Bigland Barrow
Ascending Bigland Barrow

From Newby Bridge we turned left onto a side road which ran south with Great Wood on our right. After 350m we forked right onto a bridleway. We followed this through a series of gates onto access land past a small reservoir. Keeping heading south, we ascended gently and passed over a stone stile to gain the main ridge.

Small reservoir on Bigland Barrow
Small reservoir on Bigland Barrow

Bigland Barrow Summit

We lost the light just as we reached the summit of Bigland Barrow.

Concrete lookout tower on Bigland Barrow
Concrete lookout tower on Bigland Barrow

The summit of marked by a huge tower and we took in the last of the views before donning our head torches for the descent.

Bigland Barrow Descent

Descending Bigland Barrow by torchlight
Descending Bigland Barrow by torchlight

We left to the south of Bigland Barrow for 250m before passing through two gates and heading north-east. A stone stile and another gate led us to a lane which we followed north east alongside Miller Beck.

We followed the finger post for ‘Fair Rigg 1/2 m’ across a field and over two stiles, still walking in a north-easterly direction. We passed through a gate onto a track which we followed to the junction of Back Lane, where we turned left, crossed the main road and reached the car.

Wrapping Up

What next? My final Outlying Fells of Lakeland – Muncaster Fell, Irton Pike and Boat How.

About the Author

Photo of Adventurer Nic on a Loch in the Scottish Highlands

Adventurer Nic is a Munroist, Wainwright ‘Compleator’ and is hiking her local Outlying Fells of Lakeland in the wake of the corona virus pandemic. Let her know what you thought of this post by dropping her a comment.

Walking The Wainwrights – A Book-by-Book Adventure

Adventurer Nic looking over at Great Gable from Kirk Fell in the snow during her Walking The Wainwrights Challenge
Adventurer Nic walks away from Grisedale Tarn ascending St Sunday Crag
Adventurer Nic walks away from Grisedale Tarn ascending St Sunday Crag

Walking The Wainwrights – Introduction

Walking the Wainwrights of the Lake District, UK is something I’ve done once before. I hiked my first Wainwright fell in 2017 and I quickly caught the hill bagging bug! I completed my first Wainwright round in September 2018 – all 214 fells in 364 days. Then, two years later I moved to West Cumbria from South Yorkshire, delighted to be closer to my beloved fells. Regular Wainwright walks were suddenly far more accessible to me.

In 2021 in the wake of the COVID-19 pandemic, I decided to embark on my second Wainwright round. A round with a twist! This time I’d be hiking them one book at a time. In the 1950s and 60s Alfred Wainwright published seven guidebooks entitled ‘A Pictorial Guide to the Lakeland Fells‘. I decided I’d hike each collection of fells together in a single continuous route, one book at a time. Seven multi-day Wainwright walks in total.

At the time, I was working three days a week in research and analysis in front of a laptop. So this left me with Friday to Monday to dedicate to my series of micro adventures. I would embark on seven Wainwright walks on my days off from work.

Wainwright Routes – The Planning

Stack of Alfred Wainwright Guidebooks
Stack of Alfred Wainwright Guidebooks

I planned each of my Wainwright bagging routes in the komoot app. Primarily, I used the following resources to plan my Wainwright walks –

  • paper maps
  • Alfred Wainwright’s guide books
  • a Wainwright fells list
  • a variety of blogs

Anyone who knows me knows that one of my favourite things to do is plan peak bagging routes. I enjoy it almost as much as the hiking itself!

Overall I would be walking over 600km and climbing over 30,000m in ascent.

Lake District By Bus

Adventurer Nic stands at her local bus stop in Cockermouth ready to travel the Lake District by bus

A quirky part of my Wainwright bagging was that I planned each of my Wainwright routes to start and finish at a Lake District bus stop.

Ultimately, this ‘Lake District by Bus’ approach ensured that I never had to worry about taking my car into a congested National Park during the busy Spring/Summer months.

Furthermore, travelling around the Lake District by bus also meant that I could undertake my Wainwright bagging routes in an environmentally friendly a manner as possible.

Bus Services for Walking The Wainwrights

Bus stop in the village of Rosthwaite, the Lake District with fells and farmland in the background
Bus stop in the village of Rosthwaite, the Lake District with fells and farmland in the background

The bus services I used to service my Wainwright routes were –

The X5 and X4 were always my first buses which led out of my home town of Cockermouth, Cumbria to the hub of the Keswick Depot bus station or the Penrith Depot bus station. From either of these points I could connect to the rest of the Lake District. Luckily, the X5 and X4 buses also took me directly to the Northern fells.

The 77 and 77a buses transported me from Keswick to both the North Western fells and the Western fells. This service follows a gorgeous route down Borrowdale alongside Derwent Water.

The 508 bus from Penrith allowed me to access the Eastern fells and Far Eastern fells via Ullswater. A really pretty route down the side of the lake.

The 555 bus from Keswick to Rydal transported me to the start of the Central fells route. This is a fantastic route down by Thirlmere via Grasmere.

The 505 bus allowed me to get back from the Southern fells by taking me from Coniston to Ambleside. From there I could get the 555 back to Keswick and the X5 home.

Lake District by Bus Recommendation

Nic travels on a near-empty X5 bus on her Walking The Wainwrights project

In conclusion, I highly recommend using the Stagecoach bus services of Cumbria to explore the Lake District National Park.

In the main I found the buses to be punctual.

The drivers were super friendly and helpful which always made me smile.

Seeing the Lake District from the top deck of a bus is very relaxing and the time flies.

I actually fell asleep on one of the buses which shows how comfortable the journey was.

Nic charges her phone using the USB port on the Stagecoach bus

Moreover, most of the buses have USB charging points.

This means you can charge your phone whilst you travel the Lake District by bus which I found very useful.

I was always taking lots of photographs along my journey and so the extra opportunity to recharge my phone battery along the way was handy.

On the other hand, a pitfall of the 77a route in particular is that the service regularly has to be cancelled during the busiest weekends of the year. This is due to inconsiderate car parking on the single track roads around Catbells. Unfortunately, this does lead to bus using hill walkers getting stranded at the wrong end of the valley. Luckily, the service wasn’t disrupted during my visits. Finally, it’s also worth noting that this service does not operate during the winter months.

The Lead Up to Walking The Wainwrights

I prepared for this walking challenge by meticulously reviewing my walking kit and making refinements. In addition, I went over the Wainwright routes with a fine tooth comb multiple times before locking them in. It was important for me to ensure I was using all available paths, reducing the pathless elements of the routes to a minimum as I knew that would slow me down. Furthermore, I wanted to avoid private land and wall/fence hopping which is often associated with long distance hill bagging challenges.

Researching the bus route options was easy using the Stagecoach website and the Traveline website.

My fitness was on the low side before the walking challenge began. We had just come out of another national lockdown and I hadn’t been out in the mountains regularly. I knew I wanted to start with one of the shorter Wainwrights routes. As a result, I decided on the Northern Fells.

The Wainwright Routes

The Northern Fells – Walking The Wainwrights

View of Derwent Water from the ascent of Lonscale Fell whilst Walking the Wainwrights
View of Derwent Water from the ascent of Lonscale Fell whilst Walking the Wainwrights

I walked the 24 Northern Wainwrights over three days in April 2021 starting at the Keswick Depot bus station in Keswick and hiking Latrigg first. The route ended with Souther Fell and finished at the Mungrisdale Road End bus stop on the A66. The whole Northern fells route was 79.5km in length.

The Eastern Fells – Walking The Wainwrights

A bivvy wild camp on the Eastern Fells Walking The Wainwrights route
A bivvy wild camp on the Eastern Fells Walking The Wainwrights route

I walked the 35 Eastern Wainwrights over four days in April 2021 starting at the Kirkstone Pass Inn bus stop on the Kirkstone Pass and hiking Red Screes first. The route ended with Little Mell Fell and finished at the Longthwaite Road End bus stop near Watermillock. The whole Eastern fells route was 96.4km in length.

The Central Fells – Walking The Wainwrights

The Howitzer - the summit of Helm Crag on the Central Fells route during the Walking the Wainwrights adventure
The Howitzer – the summit of Helm Crag on the Central Fells route during the Walking the Wainwrights adventure

I walked the 27 Central Wainwrights over three days at the end of April 2021 starting at the Rydal Church bus stop in Rydal and hiking Loughrigg Fell first. The route ended with High Rigg and finished at Dale Bottom bus stop near Keswick. The whole Central fells route was 71.6km in length.

The Western Fells – Walking The Wainwrights

Adventurer Nic walks along Mellbreak in the Western fells on the Walking the Wainwrights adventure
Adventurer Nic walks along Mellbreak in the Western fells on the Walking the Wainwrights adventure

I walked the 33 Western Wainwrights over four days in May 2021 starting at the Honister Youth Hostel bus stop at Honister Slate Mine and hiking Grey Knotts first. The route ended with Fleetwith Pike and finished the circular at the same Honister YHA bus stop. The whole Western fells route was 99.5km in length.

The Southern Fells – Walking The Wainwrights

Adventurer Nic peeks out of her tent during a wild camp in Eskdale at sunset
Adventurer Nic peeks out of her tent during a wild camp in Eskdale at sunset

I walked the 30 Southern Wainwrights over four days at the end of May 2021 starting at the Stonethwaite Road End bus stop in Borrowdale and hiking Bessyboot (Rosthwaite Fell) first. The route ended with The Old Man of Coniston and finished at the The Ruskin Centre bus stop in Coniston. The whole Southern fells route was 102km in length.

The North Western Fells – Walking The Wainwrights

The summit of Rannerdale Knotts on the North Western Walking The Wainwrights route
The summit of Rannerdale Knotts on the North Western Walking The Wainwrights route

I walked the 29 North Western Wainwrights over three days in June 2021 starting at the Rosthwaite General Store bus stop in Rosthwaite and hiking Castle Crag first. The route ended with Sale Fell and finished at the Dubwath (Junction with A66) bus stop in Dubwath. The whole North Western fells route was 73.9km in length.

The Far Eastern Fells – Walking The Wainwrights

Adventurer Nic hiking on the Kentmere Horseshoe on the Far Eastern Walking the Wainwrights route
Adventurer Nic hiking on the Kentmere Horseshoe on the Far Eastern Walking the Wainwrights route

I walked the 36 Far Eastern Wainwrights over four days in June 2021 starting at the Patterdale Hotel bus stop in Patterdale and hiking Place Fell first. The route ended with Troutbeck Tongue and finished at the Town End bus stop in Troutbeck. The whole Far Eastern fells route was 99.4km in length.

Walking The Wainwrights – Conclusion

Wild Camping in Back O Skiddaw
Wild Camping in Back O Skiddaw

Walking the Wainwrights and accessing the Lake District by bus was a really fulfilling experience. In short, my Wainwright walks were slow enough to truly appreciate the views and catch up with friends but fast enough to feel like a properly challenging series of walks.

About the Author

Photo of Adventurer Nic on a Loch in the Scottish Highlands

Adventurer Nic is a Munroist and double Wainwright ‘Compleator’ who in 2020 hiked a piligrimage from her birthplace of Sheffield to her home in West Cumbria. Let her know what you thought of this post by dropping her a comment.

Howes and Seat Robert

James Forrest overlooking Haweswater in the Lake District from the Old Corpse Road after hiking Seat Robert, Howes and a variety of other Outlying Fells of Lakeland
Kidsty Pike from the shore of Haweswater on the Howes and Seat Robert Outlying Fells of Lakeland route
Kidsty Pike from the shore of Haweswater on the Howes and Seat Robert Outlying Fells of Lakeland route

Howes and Seat Robert Route Introduction

Howes and Seat Robert are two classic routes featured in Alfred Wainwright’s Outlying Fells of Lakeland guide book. The original routes take in seven outlier fells of the Lake District National Park – two on the Howes route and five on the Seat Robert route. This route card incorporates all seven hills into a single circular and is a fantastic option for someone peak bagging the Outlying Fells of Lakeland.

Adventurer Nic walked this route on Thursday 24th December 2020. These were Outlier numbers 101 to 107 of 116 for Nic. Here, she explains how you can bag these outlying fells too.

Howes and Seat Robert Route Stats

Fells: Howes (583m), Nabs Moor (493m), High Wether Howe (531m), Fewling Stones (509m), Seat Robert (515m), Great Ladstones (440m) and Langhowe Pike (401m).

Total Distance: 21.8km / 13.5miles

Total Ascent: 1,020m / 3,350ft

Approx Walk Time: 8 hours

Grid Reference Start: NY 469107

Howes and Seat Robert Route Report

The Lead Up

Four days earlier we’d hiked Newton Fell (south) and Newton Fell (north). Today was a crisp and snowy Christmas Eve so we set out on a long hike of seven outlying fells near to Haweswater.

The Approach

Mardale Head Car Park by Haweswater
Mardale Head Car Park by Haweswater

We left the car park and headed to a large gate by Haweswater information board. We passed through the gate, designed to keep deer away from the road and followed the track uphill.

The path at the beginning of the Howes and Seat Robert Walk
The path at the beginning of the Howes and Seat Robert Walk

Soon we reached a fingerpost and turned left following the sign to Gatescarth Pass.

Finger post to Gatescarth Pass
Finger post to Gatescarth Pass

This stony path weaved up the hillside. We passed through a kissing gate and continued uphill.

View towards Blea Water and the High Street range
View towards Blea Water and the High Street range

Stunning views surrounded us, to the right towards Blea Water and to the left towards Haweswater. The sky was a beautiful hue of early morning sunrise pastel colours.

James Forrest hiking at sunrise at the start of the Howes and Seat Robert Route
James Forrest hiking at sunrise at the start of the Howes and Seat Robert Route

It became very icy underfoot as we reached the top of the pass.

James Forrest on an icy Gatescarth Pass
James Forrest on an icy Gatescarth Pass

There was an option to peel off to the left to hike Branstree but we kept going straight on following the fingerpost sign for the byway towards Sadgill.

Views down to Longsleddale valley from Gatescarth Pass
Views down to Longsleddale valley from Gatescarth Pass

We passed through another gate and started heading downhill with views of the Longsleddale valley which was glowing in the sunlight.

Finger post to Swindale Head and Wet Sleddale
Finger post to Swindale Head and Wet Sleddale

The Ascent

We passed through a gate at the bottom of the pass and then turned left at the fingerpost marked Swindale Head and Wet Sleddale. Hopping over the stream we made our way on the grassy trail which was boggy in parts in the direction of Mosedale Cottage to the north east.

Boggy trail to Mosedale Cottage
Boggy trail to Mosedale Cottage

We passed through a gate and at this point we could turn left for Branstree or right for Tarn Crag, two Wainwrights. Instead we continued heading north east for Mosedale Cottage.

Mosedale Cottage, a bothy in the far eastern Lake District National Park
Mosedale Cottage, a bothy in the far eastern Lake District National Park

We reached the white-washed bothy but didn’t enter due to the current COVID restrictions. It was also a little early to stop for lunch, but is a great shelter under normal circumstances.

We continued past the bothy, crossing Great Grain Gill and continued along the path. Soon we crossed Nowtly Gill and turned left after this, following the tracks of a farm vehicle up the hillside.

James Forrest ascending Howes
James Forrest ascending Howes

At around the 500m mark we looked over our left shoulders to see the white Mosedale Cottage from above.

View down to Mosedale Cottage from the ascent of Howes
View down to Mosedale Cottage from the ascent of Howes

At the top we turned right and made for the highest point, on a rocky outcrop.

The rocky summit of Howes
The rocky summit of Howes

Soon, in a vicious cold wind we reached the summit of Howes.

The Summit – Howes

View to Branstree from Howes
View to Branstree from Howes

We took a few photos on the summit but we didn’t stay for long. It was bitterly cold in the exposed position and we needed to retreat to lower ground as soon as possible.

View to Ulthwaite Rigg from Howes
View to Ulthwaite Rigg from Howes

We glanced across to Ulthwaite Rigg, a fell we’d hiked as part of another long Outlying Fells of Lakeland walk a few months earlier.

James Forrest hiking towards Nabs Moor from Howes
James Forrest hiking towards Nabs Moor from Howes

We left the summit to the north east and weaved down through the crags of Howes onto another farm vehicle track that would guide us towards Nab Moor, our second of Wainwright’s Outlying Fells of the day.

Fence between Howes and Nabs Moor
Fence between Howes and Nabs Moor

The track led us to a fence which we passed over before we continued north to the summit of Nabs Moor.

The Summit – Nabs Moor

Adventurer Nic on the submit of Nabs Moor
Adventurer Nic on the submit of Nabs Moor

Nabs Moor summit was marked by a small rock on a boulder.

View into the Swindale valley from Nabs Moor
View into the Swindale valley from Nabs Moor

The sun was now shining on us which took the edge off the wintery gales. We admired the views into Swindale valley before starting our descent into the Mosedale valley.

We headed south east initially before turning east to walk beside Swine Gill towards Mosedale Beck in the valley bottom.

Descending into the Mosedale valley
Descending into the Mosedale valley

We had two choices here. Either turn right at the bottom and follow the path to the bridge before looping back onto High Wether Howe from the south. Alternatively, we could find a way across the river here, approaching High Wether Howe from the west and cutting around two kilometres from the route. Luckily the dry weather allowed us to go for the latter option.

James Forrest crossing Mosedale Beck on the Howes and Seat Robert route
James Forrest crossing Mosedale Beck on the Howes and Seat Robert route

We crossed the fence for the second time of the day and used a small island in the river to aid our crossing. Dry boots all round!

Looking towards High Wether Howe
Looking towards High Wether Howe

We ascended High Wether Howe on the right hand side of the fence. As we reached the top we turned left and crossed the fence for the third and final time. Just short of the summit we stopped for lunch, as the rocky top of High Wether Howe gave us some much needed protection from the wind. Lunch today was a family favourite recipe from the night before – potato, cheese and onion, baked in the oven. It was cold now but was still delicious!

The Summit – High Wether Howe

View from High Wether Howe
View from High Wether Howe

We topped out onto the summit of High Wether Howe and took some photographs before continuing north to Fewling Stones.

Icicles between High Wether Howe and Fewling Stones
Icicles between High Wether Howe and Fewling Stones

We passed a lip of ground where a perfect collection of icicles had formed. They glistened in the sunshine.

Blue skies on the Howes and Seat Robert route
Blue skies on the Howes and Seat Robert route

We continued north under bright blue skies until we reached the top of Fewling Stones.

The Summit – Fewling Stones

View from the summit of Fewling Stones
View from the summit of Fewling Stones

The summit views of Fewling Stones were less dramatic than the earlier summits of the day as we were walking further and further away from the bigger fells, but the hillside was glowing in the sunshine and it had turned into a lovely day for hiking.

Surveying the land between Fewling Stones and Seat Robert
Surveying the land between Fewling Stones and Seat Robert

We left the summit of Fewling Stones to the south east. We walked over pathless terrain passing to the north of Haskew Tarn before ascending Seat Robert, our fifth summit of the day.

The Summit – Seat Robert

The large summit cairn on Seat Robert
The large summit cairn on Seat Robert

Seat Robert had the most established summit of the bunch, with a large wind shelter and summit cairn. We both commented that there wasn’t much of a drop in height between the five outlying fells on this side of the valley which meant that that hardest part of the walk was the pathless tufty terrain. You just have to be careful not to twist an ankle on the rough ground between the fells around Seat Robert.

James Forrest walks between Seat Robert and Great Ladstones
James Forrest walks between Seat Robert and Great Ladstones

We left Seat Robert to the north, staying left of Gambling Crag and following a series of intermittent farm vehicle tracks to Great Ladstones. There were patches of thick ice galore on this part of the route.

The Summit – Great Ladstones

Summit cairn of Great Ladstones
Summit cairn of Great Ladstones

The summit of Great Ladstones was marked by a cairn. We left the summit to the north east and made a beeline over pathless terrain to Langhowe Pike.

Views as we approach the final fell of the day Langhowe Pike
Views as we approach the final fell of the day Langhowe Pike

By this point we were beginning to tire but we knew we had a couple of ascents left.

The Summit – Langhowe Pike

View from the summit of Langhowe Pike
View from the summit of Langhowe Pike

Langhowe Pike summit was marked by a cairn. We admired the views back to where we’d walked from. It had been a great day of hill walking so far.

The Descent to Swindale Head

The decent of Langhowe Pike
The decent of Langhowe Pike

We left the summit, making our own zig zags down the hillside towards the bottom path. We made it to a gate at the bottom beside a dry stone wall.

James Forrest walking towards Swindale Head
James Forrest walking towards Swindale Head

From here we followed the path south-west to a bridge in the Swindale valley, just upstream from the dam.

James Forrest on the bridge
James Forrest on the bridge

After crossing the bridge we joined Swindale Lane to continue south west to Swindale Head.

View towards Swindale Head
View towards Swindale Head

At the farm at the end of Swindale Head we went through a gate to the right of the buildings and turned right at the finger post marked ‘Public Bridleway – Mardale via Old Corpse Road’.

The Old Corpse Road and the Final Descent to Mardale Head

We followed the bridleway up between two walls to a gate.

Finger post for the Old Corpse Road to finish our Howes and Seat Robert adventure
Finger post for the Old Corpse Road to finish our Howes and Seat Robert adventure

Passing through the gate, we then crossed a stream heading uphill to the north.

We continued along the Old Corpse Road as it swung west.

Crossing the stream
Crossing the stream

We soon realised we were walking just below the summit of Hare Shaw, a fell that we’d hiked as part the Naddle Horseshoe a few months earlier.

The view up towards Hare Shaw, another of Wainwright's Outlying Fells of Lakeland
The view up towards Hare Shaw, another of Wainwright’s Outlying Fells of Lakeland

At the top of the pass we could appreciate the snow-capped High Street mountain range before the southern tip of Haweswater came into view.

View to the High Street range of snow-capped fells, seen towards the end of the Howes and Seat Robert route
View to the High Street range of snow-capped fells, seen towards the end of the Howes and Seat Robert route

Many would argue that this is the best view in the far eastern Lake District National Park. Rough Crag drops dramatically down into reservoir forming a dramatic peninsula.

Adventurer Nic standing above Haweswater, just off the Old Corpse Road
Adventurer Nic standing above Haweswater, just off the Old Corpse Road

We stopped for photographs close to two ruined buildings just off the path.

We followed the zig zag trail down to the road where we crossed over and took the lakeside path back to the car.

James Forrest on the final descent into Mardale Head, finishing the Howes and Seat Robert Outlying Fells route
James Forrest on the final descent into Mardale Head, finishing the Howes and Seat Robert Outlying Fells route

The lakeside path was also beautiful, with the water reflecting a gorgeous sunset glow.

Haweswater at sunset
Haweswater at sunset

Due to erosion, the path at the end is not recommended, so we finished the last part of the route on the road back to Mardale Head car park.

Adventurer Nic on the Haweswater lakeside path
Adventurer Nic on the Haweswater lakeside path

A Dramatic Finish

At the very end of the walk we had a ‘heart in mouth’ moment! The car key wouldn’t work. It was so cold that I think it had affected the battery. Luckily there’s a back up key hidden inside the push button casing so I used this to gain access. Unfortunately it meant setting off the car alarm in the process! The sound of our alarm must have carried down the valley until I managed to disable it! Oops!

Wrapping Up

Gummer’s How and four other fells at the south of Windermere beckoned. This would be our next Outlying Fell bagging outing.

About the Author

Photo of Adventurer Nic on a Loch in the Scottish Highlands

Adventurer Nic is a Munroist, Wainwright ‘Compleator’ and is hiking her local Outlying Fells of Lakeland in the wake of the corona virus pandemic. Let her know what you thought of this post by dropping her a comment.

Dixon Heights – Newton Fell South

View from Newton Fell South Top Dixon Heights towards Morecambe Bay

Route Introduction

Dixon Heights (Newton Fell South Top) is one of Alfred Wainwright’s Outlying Fells of Lakeland. It is situated on the southern edge of the Lake District National Park. This route card suggests a fantastic route for someone peak bagging the Outlying Fells of Lakeland.

Adventurer Nic walked this route on Sunday 20th December 2020. This was Outlier number 100 of 116 for Nic. Here, she explains how you can bag this outlying fell too.

Newton Fell South – Dixon Heights Route Stats

Fells: Newton Fell South – Dixon Heights (177m)

Total Distance: 3.69km / 2.29miles

Total Ascent: 150m / 500ft

Approx Walk Time: 1 hour

Grid Reference Start: SD 415806

Newton Fell South – Dixon Heights Route Report

The Lead Up

Earlier, my boyfriend James and I had hiked Newton Fell North from a parking area near Chapel House Forestry England. We moved the car slightly to start Newton Fell South (Dixon Heights) from Lindale, in order to avoid walking across private land.

The Approach

Waterfall on the side of the road in Lindale - The Gill
Waterfall on the side of the road in Lindale – The Gill

We parked on The Gill opposite a wonderful waterfall and walked uphill past the Royal Oak pub. Ascending past Burnbank Cottage we continued straight on up Lindale Hill. We merged onto Cartmel Lane, ignoring the road sign that indicated the vehicular route to Kendal and Lancaster. There’s no doubt about it, this is the least enjoyable stretch of this route and caution should be taken walking along this road. There are very limited parking options for this fell which necessitates the road walking, but it would soon be forgotten once we were across the main road.

James Forrest crossing the A590
James Forrest crossing the A590

At the end of the slip road we crossed the dual carriageway A590 carefully. 

James Forrest walking down Lindale Brow
James Forrest walking down Lindale Brow

At the other side of the road we made our way down the tarmac lane – Lindale Brow.

James Forrest on the approach of Newton Fell South Top- Dixon Heights
James Forrest on the approach of Newton Fell South Top- Dixon Heights

We passed through a small hamlet before following the right of way onto a track.

The Ascent

View across the south Lakeland countryside
View across the south Lakeland countryside

We passed over a stile at the side of a metal gate and ascended up the side of Newton Fell Dixon Heights, enjoying the view over the wall on our left.

James Forrest approaching the next gate
James Forrest approaching the next gate

We forked right to stay on the right of way and the trail led into woodland on grassy terrain. Passing through a wooden gate which was pinned open at time of writing we continued north.

The ascent below the crags of Newton Fell South - Dixon Heights
The ascent below the crags of Newton Fell South – Dixon Heights

Immediately after this, we forked off to the right following a faint trail, to pass under the crag.

The arch of the ruin
The arch of the ruin

We reached a ruin atop the crag and enjoyed the low sun which was creating a lovely orange glow.

James Forrest ascending Dixon Heights
James Forrest ascending Dixon Heights

Walking alongside a fence we progressed on to the south, close to gorse bushes and small trees.

Fell pony in the undergrowth
Fell pony in the undergrowth

We then peeled off to the left once we’d cleared the steep part of the crag. This was where we saw our first fell pony. A white pony in the shelter of the undergrowth.

Fell pony with a rainbow
Fell pony with a rainbow

We continued uphill and saw our second fell pony, which had a beautiful rainbow backdrop.

The Summit – Newton Fell South – Dixon Heights

Summit of Newton Fell South - Dixon Heights
Summit of Newton Fell South – Dixon Heights

From here the tower top of Newton Fell South (Dixon Heights) was in view.

Rainbow over nearby fells
Rainbow over nearby fells

We enjoyed views over nearby fells.

Morecambe Bay views
Morecambe Bay views

The views out to Morecambe Bay were particularly beautiful.

A cairn with Hampsfell in the distance with the setting sun
A cairn with Hampsfell in the distance with the setting sun

The view across to Hampsfell was stunning in the evening light.

View from Newton Fell South - Dixon Heights
View from Newton Fell South – Dixon Heights

Despite the heavily tarmacked approach, the scenery from the top of Newton Fell South – Dixon Heights was ultimately worth it.

The Descent

James Forrest descending Newton Fell South - Dixon Heights
James Forrest descending Newton Fell South – Dixon Heights

We descended over easy grassy terrain to the north. We turned left at the bottom to join the path and retraced our steps back to the car. 

Wrapping Up

Next on the Outlying Fells peak bagging agenda was a mash up of Alfred Wainwright’s Howes and Seat Robert routes in the Far Eastern Lake District.

About the Author

Photo of Adventurer Nic on a Loch in the Scottish Highlands

Adventurer Nic is a Munroist, Wainwright ‘Compleator’ and is hiking her local Outlying Fells of Lakeland in the wake of the corona virus pandemic. Let her know what you thought of this post by dropping her a comment.

Newton Fell North

James Forrest looking down over fellside on the descent of Newton Fell North

Route Introduction

Newton Fell North Top is one of Alfred Wainwright’s Outlying Fells of Lakeland. It is situated on the southern edge of the Lake District National Park. This route card suggests a fantastic route for someone peak bagging the Outlying Fells of Lakeland.

Adventurer Nic walked this route on Sunday 20th December 2020. This was Outlier number 99 of 116 for Nic. Here, she explains how you can bag this outlying fell too.

Newton Fell North Route Stats

Fells: Newton Fell North (239m)

Total Distance: 5.49km / 3.41miles

Total Ascent: 180m / 600ft

Approx Walk Time: 2 hours

Grid Reference Start: SD 381852

Newton Fell North Route Report

The Lead Up

A fortnight earlier I’d hiked Hampsfell and Humphrey Head and now I was returning to South Lakeland to hike the nearby Newton Fell North top, followed by the Newton Fell South top (Dixon Heights) on the same day.

Starting the Walk

Chapel House - Forestry England entrance to woodland
Chapel House – Forestry England entrance to woodland

We parked in a layby opposite the ‘Chapel House- Forestry England’ sign and walked uphill following a track into the woodland.

Peeling off the track onto a footpath through the woodland
Peeling off the track onto a footpath through the woodland

After 400 metres we peeled off onto footpath that rose uphill which was grassy and a bit muddy underfoot.

View to Finsthwaite Heights from the ascent of Newton Fell North
View to Finsthwaite Heights from the ascent of Newton Fell North

We soon emerged out of the woodland and through gaps in the trees we appreciated the view over towards Finsthwaite Heights.

View to Windermere on the ascent
View to Windermere on the ascent

Soon after this Windermere came into view as we followed the finger post to the north.

James Forrest hiking into the woodland
James Forrest hiking into the woodland

The trail led into thicker woodland once more.

James Forrest forking right uphill through the trees
James Forrest forking right uphill through the trees

Once in the woodland we peeled off to the right in order to continue uphill.

James Forest hiking in the Chapel House woods
James Forest hiking in the Chapel House woods

We walked along a large score in ground through the tall trees.

Path out of the woodland
Path out of the woodland

The path was then easy to follow as it ascended and then flattened out and dipped slightly.

James Forrest pointing towards Newton Fell North
James Forrest pointing towards Newton Fell North

The path led us to a wide track where we could see the high ground of Newton Fell. We turned right on the track to head towards our target.

Following the small finger post
Following the small finger post

After 300 metres we took a sharp right following a yellow disc on a low fingerpost. The path looked overgrown at first but it was easy to follow the slim path. The scent of woodland filled our nostrils as we progressed along the trail. It was boggy and mulchy in parts but we made it through with dry feet, walking carefully over exposed wet tree roots.

Ascent over Open Fellside

James Forrest going over the stile
James Forrest going over the stile

We hopped over a stile and continued along the trail over the open fellside.

James Forrest forking left
James Forrest forking left

The handy footpath markers continued here. At a wobbly finger post we turned left to head east over rough ground towards the wall.

James Forrest following the wall to Newton Fell North
James Forrest following the wall to Newton Fell North

We then followed the wall as it undulated south. We crossed a stream and walked until a new boundary wall came into view.

James Forrest going over the stone stile
James Forrest going over the stone stile

Here we passed over a stone stile to the other side to continue following the wall on our left, all the way to the top of Newton Fell (North).

The Summit – Newton Fell North

Phone mast on Newton Fell North Top
Phone mast on Newton Fell North Top

We didn’t climb over the wall to the true highest point of the fell as Alfred Wainwright himself wrote in his book The Outlying Fells of Lakeland – ‘the game is not worth the candle’.

Looking over the High Newton Reservoirs from the summit of Newton Fell North Top
Looking over the High Newton Reservoirs from the summit of Newton Fell North Top

Instead we stood beside the ugly phone mast and surveyed the views from there, including the High Newton reservoirs to the south east.

View to Hampsfell from Newton Fell North Top
View to Hampsfell from Newton Fell North Top

The view to Hampsfell and Morecambe Bay stretched out to the south.

The Descent

James Forrest approaching Whitestone Beck
James Forrest approaching Whitestone Beck

We retraced our steps for almost a kilometre before we reached Whitestone Beck. Instead of crossing the stream by the wall like the ascent, we peeled off left at the path crossroads and crossed the stream further down.

James Forrest walking the trail on the descent of Newton Fell
James Forrest walking the trail on the descent of Newton Fell

Once on the other side we followed the path marked by a finger post to head west.

White Stone cliffs
White Stone cliffs

We admired the cliffs of White Stone to our left as we followed the trail down towards the road. When we reached the bottom we didn’t go through the gate. Instead we turned right to follow the grassy path. We exited through a gate in the corner of the field and turned right onto the lane. Another right turn at the crossroad at the bottom and we were back at our car.

Wrapping Up

Next on the Wainwright’s Outlying Fells peak bagging agenda was Newton Fell South Top Dixon Heights just down the road!

About the Author

Photo of Adventurer Nic on a Loch in the Scottish Highlands

Adventurer Nic is a Munroist, Wainwright ‘Compleator’ and is hiking her local Outlying Fells of Lakeland in the wake of the corona virus pandemic. Let her know what you thought of this post by dropping her a comment.

Hampsfell and Humphrey Head

View to the Coniston Fells from Humphrey Head, one of Wainwright's Outlying Fells of Lakeland
View from Hampsfell
View from Hampsfell

Route Introduction

Hampsfell and Humphrey Head are the most southerly of Alfred Wainwright’s Outlying Fells of Lakeland. Only Hampsfell falls within the Lake District National Park but both are beautiful fells. This route card suggests a fantastic route for someone peak bagging the Outlying Fells of Lakeland.

Adventurer Nic walked this route on Monday 7th December 2020. These were Outlier numbers 97 and 98 of 116 for Nic. Here, she explains how you can bag these outlying fells too.

Hampsfell and Humphrey Head Route Stats

Fells: Hampsfell (220m) and Humphrey Head (53m)

Total Distance: 16.5km / 10.3miles

Total Ascent: 310m / 1,000ft

Approx Walk Time: 5 hours

Grid Reference Start: SD 390741

Hampsfell and Humphrey Head Route Report

The Lead Up

The previous day I’d hiked Dunmallard Hill and Heughscar Hill and I decided to seize upon the stable, crisp winter weather window and head down south to Grange-over-Sands to continue my peak bagging quest to hike all of the Outlying Fells of Lakeland.

The Approach to Allithwaite

From Holy Well Lane car park, I walked north over the cattle grid and headed down Holy Well Lane. After 700 metres I turned right onto the bridleway to head east.

Finger post marking the start of the bridleway
Finger post marking the start of the bridleway

At the end of bridleway, I passed through a gate and turned left to walk alongside the wall. The trail was grassy and muddy in places.

Stone stile in the wall
Stone stile in the wall

I passed over a stone stile on my left and proceeded immediately through a small gate.

Small gate leading into field
Small gate leading into field

This led across a field of sheep before leading to a passage under the railway line.

Train travelling overhead
Train travelling overhead

After exiting the tunnel I continued straight on, hugging the right hand side of the field. I crossed a tarmac track and continued walking north through a gap in the wall, following a fingerpost for the Cumbria Coastal Way.

Sign for the Cumbria Coastal Way
Sign for the Cumbria Coastal Way

I walked through another field to a gate in the top right hand corner. This led into another field and to another gate, which led onto a short boardwalk and over a stile. This field had farm buildings over to the right which I walked alongside, heading to a ladder stile.

Route past the barn to the ladder stile
Route past the barn to the ladder stile

I passed over this into the next field and went through a gate which led on to exit the field through a gate leading onto a lane. Here, I turned left and walked north along the lane before turning left again at the T-junction for Jack Hill. I then took the first right, around the front of the Pheasant Inn pub to walk uphill on Church Road through Allithwaite.

Allithwaite to Fell End

When the road forked I took the left hand fork which led onto a residential side street.

Sign to Cartmel
Sign to Cartmel

At the next junction I followed the sign for Cartmel and continued uphill passing Saint Mary’s Church and Allithwaite Primary School on my left.

I took the next right as the gradient began to flatten out onto Wart Barrow Lane. It was along this road that I saw a bench and sat and ate my lunch there.

Lunchtime view from the bench
Lunchtime view from the bench

Setting back off I soon saw the stile in the wall on the right.

Stone stile into the field
Stone stile into the field

I used this and walked along the field which cut the corner of the country road.

From here I was treated to lovely views over to the distant snow-capped Coniston fells.

View to snow capped Coniston fells
View to snow capped Coniston fells

It was only two days earlier that I was right opposite the Old Man of Coniston on Top O Selside.

I merged back onto the road over another stone stile next to a large metal gate and continued to the next T junction. Here I turned left followed by an immediate right, beside the cemetery to walk up Grange Fell Road.

Cemetery
Cemetery

I passed the golf club and continued uphill.

I took my next left onto Spring Bank Road to head north, but soon followed a finger post for Cartmel over a stone stile.

Finger post to Cartmel
Finger post to Cartmel

This led onto the open fellside. I headed north and decided to veer north west to the summit of Fell End.

Fell End to Hampsfell Hospice

Looking back on the ascent of Fell End
Looking back on the ascent of Fell End

Behind me was a beautiful view across Morecambe Bay which was glistening in the sunlight.

I left the summit to the north following a grassy trail that led to a large gate. I used the stile to the left of the gate and then ascended once again to the north.

View to Hampsfell Hospice from the descent of Fell End
View to Hampsfell Hospice from the descent of Fell End

The boxy Hampsfell Hospice soon came into view in the distance and the trail ahead led to it, passing over one more stone stile along the way.

The Summit – Hampsfell

Hampsfell Hospice
Hampsfell Hospice

At the summit I explored the Hampsfell Hospice site which was built in 1846.

Signs in Hampsfell Hospice
Signs in Hampsfell Hospice

You can peer inside and read poetry mounted on plaques.

Stone steps up to the roof of Hampsfell Hospice
Stone steps up to the roof of Hampsfell Hospice

You can also ascend the stone steps on the outside of Hampsfell Hospice to walk on the roof.

List of sights which can be seen from Hampsfell
List of sights which can be seen from Hampsfell

There you will find a list of fells and towns visible from Hampsfell plus the corresponding bearing for each. The list includes some familiar Outlying Fells of Lakeland like Black Combe, Caw and Walna Scar.

Couple reaching the summit of Hampsfell
Couple reaching the summit of Hampsfell

On a good day you can see as far as Blackpool, the Howgill fells and Ingleborough.

Viewfinder on Hampsfell Hospice
Viewfinder on Hampsfell Hospice

The viewfinder is looking a little worse for wear these days but it is very charming.

Decorated stone on Hampsfell
Decorated stone on Hampsfell

On the top there was also a stone which read ‘One day you will look back and realise the little things are the BIG things’ which for me sums up the joy of the smaller Outlying Fells of Lakeland.

The Descent – Hampsfell

The Coniston Fells from Hampsfell
The Coniston Fells from Hampsfell

As I left Hampsfell Hospice I followed one of the many trails which headed south east through the patchy sections of limestone pavement.

Limestone pavement on Hampsfell
Limestone pavement on Hampsfell

There was one slightly awkward section of limestone pavement at the bottom which would be slippery in the wet, but I got down with no worries and immediately went over the ladder stile.

Ladder stile on Hampsfell
Ladder stile on Hampsfell

The trail led downhill to a stone stile. I went over this and continued walking beside a fence along a grassy path.

I went through a gate at the bottom and turned left to head down the lane.

Gate into woodland
Gate into woodland

Following a public footpath sign on the left, I entered woodland through a metal gate. There are a few options for exiting the woodland, but my GPX trace will show that I exited using the right of way behind a large building and down multiple flights of steps through Lieutenant Colonel Austin Townsend Porritt’s Garden before reaching Main Street.

Grange-over-Sands to Humphrey Head

Here I turned right and crossed the road to head down into a large car park to gain access to the Promenade.

Tunnel under railway to promenade
Tunnel under railway to promenade

Behind the Commodore Inn there is a tunnel under the railway line which I passed through. At the other side I turned right onto the promenade.

Cyclist on Grange-over-Sands promenade
Cyclist on Grange-over-Sands promenade

I walked right to the end of the promenade and turned right under the railway. I walked along Carter Fold which led to Cart Lane. There I kept walking south past houses that must have wonderful views across the bay until the lane became a thin path.

Path towards Humphrey Head
Path towards Humphrey Head

This path led to a staircase. I turned left at the top of the staircase to walk along Kentsford Road. I soon reached Kents Bank railway station.

Kents Bank Railway Station with Humphrey Head in the distance
Kents Bank Railway Station with Humphrey Head in the distance

Here I showed caution crossing the railway and exited through the gate on the other side.

Gap in the wall towards Humphrey Head
Gap in the wall towards Humphrey Head

I passed through a gap in the wall to walk along the thin promenade in the direction of Humphrey Head which was now looming in front of me in the fading light.

It was here that I wondered if I’d make it before the sunset, so I increased my pace. The thin promenade didn’t last forever and soon I was following a mushy trail but I could now see the path that I started on, on the other side of the bay. I re-joined the path and turned right back onto the bridleway.

Gate to Humphrey Head
Gate to Humphrey Head

At the end of the bridleway I turned left, but instead of following the lane back to the car I took the next left through a gate.

The Summit – Humphrey Head

Grassy ascent of Humphrey Head
Grassy ascent of Humphrey Head

I peeled off the lane and followed the spine of Humphrey Head along the grassy trail, passing through one more gate along the way.

View from the summit of Humphrey Head
View from the summit of Humphrey Head

The true summit of this tiny fell is actually 150m before trig pillar so I took a few photos here before walking on to the trig.

Sunset at the Humphrey Head trig pillar
Sunset at the Humphrey Head trig pillar

I continued to walk part way down the nose of the limestone peninsula towards the vast expanse of Morecambe Bay.

Humphrey Head Point
Humphrey Head Point

For a moment I considered returning to the car off Humphrey Head point via the saltmarsh but I didn’t fancy crossing the soft sediment alone after sunset as the channels are often deep and impassable.

Memorial gate on Humphrey Head at sunset
Memorial gate on Humphrey Head at sunset

I therefore retraced my steps and paused at the gate by the trig pillar for a while, enjoying the sunset.

Sunset from Humphrey Head
Sunset from Humphrey Head

Today – 7th December 2020 – marked 10 years since one of the worst days of my life, a bereavement that will never leave me.

I couldn’t think of a better way to mark the day than with a glorious pink sunset in a stunning Cumbrian location.

The Descent – Humphrey Head

Pink skies above Humphrey Head after sunset
Pink skies above Humphrey Head after sunset

I considered a route off the side of the crag directly down to the car but I was told this is a very steep and slippery descent on limestone and mud so it’s not one I’d recommend alone in the dark either. I therefore retraced my steps back to Holy Well Lane and to my car.

Wrapping Up

Up next would be Newton Fell (North Top).

About the Author

Photo of Adventurer Nic on a Loch in the Scottish Highlands

Adventurer Nic is a Munroist, Wainwright ‘Compleator’ and is hiking her local Outlying Fells of Lakeland in the wake of the corona virus pandemic. Let her know what you thought of this post by dropping her a comment.

Dunmallard Hill and Heughscar Hill

Views to Ullswater from Heughscar Hill near Pooley Bridge in the Lake District National Park
The top of Dunmallard Hill in the Lake District
The top of Dunmallard Hill in the Lake District

Dunmallard Hill and Heughscar Hill Route Introduction

Dunmallard Hill and Heughscar Hill are two of Alfred Wainwright’s Outlying Fells of Lakeland. They’re situated on the north-eastern edge of the Lake District National Park. This route card suggests a fantastic route for someone peak bagging the Outlying Fells of Lakeland.

Adventurer Nic walked this route on Sunday 6th December 2020. These were Outlier numbers 95 and 96 of 116 for Nic. Here, she explains how you can bag these outlying fells too.

Dunmallard Hill and Heughscar Hill Route Stats

Fells: Heughscar Hill (375m) and Dunmallard Hill / Dunmallet (240m)

Total Distance: 7.81km / 4.85miles

Total Ascent: 310m / 1,025ft

Approx Walk Time: 3 hours

Grid Reference Start: NY 470243

Dunmallard Hill and Heughscar Hill Route Report

The Lead Up

The previous day I’d hiked Carron Crag and the Top O Selside Fells and the dry wintery spell was continuing so I thought I’d capitalise on the lovely weather with another peak bagging outing as I travelled across Cumbria visiting the summits of each of the Outlying Fells of Lakeland.

The Start of the Route

Pooley Bridge, a village in the Eden District of Cumbria in the Lake District
Pooley Bridge, a village in the Eden District of Cumbria in the Lake District

I left the Lake District National Park Authority car park and turned right onto the main road through Pooley Bridge. Walking through the village, I passed St Paul’s Church and began to ascend uphill, following a sign for the Ullswater Way.

Sign for the Ullswater Way in Pooley Bridge
Sign for the Ullswater Way in Pooley Bridge

At the crossroads I continued straight on in the direction of Hill Croft Caravan Park. When I reached the entrance for the caravan park I kept right though, remaining on the road.

Sneak peek of Ullswater through the trees on the ascent of Heughscar Hill
Sneak peek of Ullswater through the trees on the ascent of Heughscar Hill

The view towards Ullswater started to open up through the trees as I walked towards Heughscar Fell.

The Ascent – Heughscar Hill

Gate to the fell
Gate to the fell

At the end of the tarmac road I passed through a gate and continued along the main path, gradually ascending.

The view continued to open up to my right, a view of Ullswater and the surrounding fells, with their tops shrouded in cloud.

Resting on the ascent of Heughscar Hill looking towards Ullswater
Resting on the ascent of Heughscar Hill looking towards Ullswater

I paused to take a layer off. I was already too hot. It was a rather mild December afternoon despite the lack of sun.

Along the route there were a few options to turn off the main trail but I ignored them and continued ascending gently over a stony trail that almost felt like cobbles in parts until I arrived at a fingerpost.

Fingerpost to Askham Fell on the way to Heughscar Hill
Fingerpost to Askham Fell on the way to Heughscar Hill

I followed it in the direction of Askham Fell but then almost immediately peeled off the trail to the left in order to follow a grassy path to the north east.

The turn off from the main track up Heughscar Hill
The turn off from the main track up Heughscar Hill

I kept reminding myself to turn around regularly here as the best of the view was behind me on this section of the route.

Ullswater from the ascent of Heughscar Hill
Ullswater from the ascent of Heughscar Hill

It was here where I encountered small sections of snow, so I couldn’t resist marching through the virgin snow like a child.

Adventurer Nic with her feet in the snow on Heughscar Hill
Adventurer Nic with her feet in the snow on Heughscar Hill

The cairned summit of Heughscar Hill came into view as I continued uphill, and the trail led around to it from the south.

The cairned summit of Heughscar Hill in the distance
The cairned summit of Heughscar Hill in the distance

The Summit – Heughscar Hill

The view from the summit of Heughscar Hill was very nice, with the best feature being the curvy Ullswater down in the valley.

The summit cairn of Heughscar Hill with Ullswater in the distance
The summit cairn of Heughscar Hill with Ullswater in the distance

It was a Sunday so there were plenty of families and dog walkers out enjoying the fells but I appeared to be the only peak bagger amongst them. Most had no interest in reaching the true summit and so I had a moment with it all to myself.

Linking the Fells

Ullswater from Heughscar Hill
Ullswater from Heughscar Hill

I headed off the summit to the north over grassy terrain. The view of Ullswater was actually better here as I could see more of the lake.

I followed the trail for 600 metres before it peeled off to the left below a small crag.

At the path crossroads beneaeth the crag I turned left and here the route became a little muddy but the view more than made up for it.

I glanced across to Dunmallard Hill which was covered in trees in the distance. This was next on my peak bagging agenda.

Dunmallard Hill, seen from Heughscar Hill
Dunmallard Hill, seen from Heughscar Hill

I continued to head west, following a right hand fork at the next path junction until I met the corner of a wall.

Corner of the wall on the descent of Heughscar Hill
Corner of the wall on the descent of Heughscar Hill

I followed this wall down the hill and re-joined the main track at the bottom. Passing through the gate I retraced my steps back to the bridge at Pooley Bridge.

Some might want to end their walk there, or stop for a brew (or a pint) in Pooley Bridge before continuing on to Dunmallard Hill.

Pooley Bridge - newly renovated in October 2020
Pooley Bridge – newly renovated in October 2020

I headed over the bridge, which was only recently rebuilt in October 2020. The 128ft bridge replaces the stone bridge from the 18th Century that was damaged during Storm Desmond in 2015.

Inscribed bricks on Pooley Bridge
Inscribed bricks on Pooley Bridge

Inscribed in the bricks are people and businesses who helped raise the required funds for the new bridge.

View from Pooley Bridge towards Ullswater
View from Pooley Bridge towards Ullswater

Views on both sides of the bridge are delightful.

View from Pooley Bridge
View from Pooley Bridge

When the road bent to the left I crossed it and joined the path beneath Dunmallard Hill.

The Ascent – Dunmallard Hill

The new Pooley Bridge, seen from the foot of Dunmallard Hill
The new Pooley Bridge, seen from the foot of Dunmallard Hill

I took one last look across at the bridge from here before I headed up the forest path which rose steeply into the woodland.

The steep woodland path to Dunmallard Hill
The steep woodland path to Dunmallard Hill

The main trail loops all the way around, spiralling up the hill right to the summit.

The Summit – Dunmallard Hill

This is probably one of the most underwhelming of all of the Outlying Fells of Lakeland summits that I’ve visited so far. People normally go hillwalking for the expanse of views. But Dunmallard Hill basically just a woodland on a hump therefore you know you’re at the summit when you can climb no further.

Dunmallard Hill Summit
Dunmallard Hill Summit

Wainwright refers to the fell as Dunmallet and other spellings include Dunmallock and Dunmalloght. In this article I’ve stuck with what’s printed on most maps – Dunmallard Hill.

The Descent

I continued over the summit and down the fell to the north. This was slightly steeper than the ascent and a lot of fun in the mud.

The descent path off Dunmallard Hill
The descent path off Dunmallard Hill

The trail soon re-joined my route of ascent and from here I turned right and retraced my steps back to the car.

An evergreen tree in the middle of a desolate winter woodland on Dunmallard Hill
An evergreen tree in the middle of a desolate winter woodland on Dunmallard Hill

Wrapping Up

Next on the list was Humphrey Head and Hampsfell – the most southerly of all the Outlying Fells of Lakeland.

About the Author

Photo of Adventurer Nic on a Loch in the Scottish Highlands

Adventurer Nic is a Munroist, Wainwright ‘Compleator’ and is hiking her local Outlying Fells of Lakeland in the wake of the corona virus pandemic. Let her know what you thought of this post by dropping her a comment.

Top O Selside and Carron Crag

View to the Coniston fells over Coniston Water from the Top O Selside hiking route
Adventurer Nic on High Light Haw
Adventurer Nic on High Light Haw

Top O Selside and Carron Crag Route Introduction

Top O Selside and Carron Crag are two routes featured in Alfred Wainwright’s book – The Outlying Fells of Lakeland. The original routes take in 5 tops in the south of the Lake District National Park. This route card mashes the two routes together into one longer route and is a fantastic option for someone peak bagging the Outlying Fells of Lakeland.

Adventurer Nic walked this route on Saturday 5th December 2020. These were Outlier numbers 90 to 94 of 116 for Nic. Here, she explains how you can bag these outlying fells too.

Top O Selside and Carron Crag Route Stats

Fells: Carron Crag (314m), High Light Haw (263m), Low Light Haw (250m) and Brock Barrow (221m).

Total Distance: 18.2km / 11.3miles

Total Ascent: 470m / 1,550ft

Approx Walk Time: 6 hours

Grid Reference Start: SD 336942

Top O Selside and Carron Crag Route Report

The Lead Up

It had been a couple of months since my last Outlying Fells of Lakeland walk which was Great Worm Crag, The Pike and Hesk Fell back in September. It was now early December and the Lake District had experienced it’s first snowfall of the winter season.

My boyfriend James and I decided to hike Carron Crag and the Top O Selside fells on this sunny Saturday from Grizedale main car park.

The Ascent

Grizedale Car Park and Visitors Centre
Grizedale Car Park and Visitors Centre

We left the car park and headed west down the side road following a sign to Grizedale Forest Office. Crossing over the bridge and passing a farm, we peeled off the track to head uphill on a bridleway.

The start of the bridleway
The start of the bridleway

We found ourselves following a moss covered dry stone wall. Part way along the wall we were very surprised to see some graffiti art. These painted bricks featured the logos of common outdoors brands.

Outdoor brand graffiti art on a dry stone wall in Grizedale Forest
Outdoor brand graffiti art on a dry stone wall in Grizedale Forest

We kept to the left until the bridleway joined a much wider track, we turned right onto this and walked for around 200m before taking the first left uphill.

Trail leading uphill through Grizedale Forest
Trail leading uphill through Grizedale Forest

On this route, we passed one of Grizedale forest’s many sculptures entitled RUUP – from ‘ruupor’ which translates to ‘megaphone’ in Estonian.

RUUP sculpture in Grizedale Forest
RUUP sculpture in Grizedale Forest

The three sculptures were designed by Birgit Ă•igus and placed on the Carron Crag trail through the forest. As the artist’s aim was to encourage folk to stop and listen to the woodland sounds, we did just that.

James Forrest having a good look at the RUUP sculpture in Grizedale Forest
James Forrest having a good look at the RUUP sculpture in Grizedale Forest

After our spot of forest bathing we continued on the trail before turning right at the cross roads at the top onto a tarmac track. We then took the second left onto a stony path.

We followed the trail all the way to another sculpture of Grizedale forest.

17 Degrees South Sculpture in Grizedale Forest
17 Degrees South Sculpture in Grizedale Forest

This time it was a 1997 sculpture by Linda Watson entitled 17 Degrees South.

We continued uphill until we reached the short scramble onto the summit of Carron Crag.

James Forrest reaching the summit of Carron Crag
James Forrest reaching the summit of Carron Crag

The Summit – Carron Crag

Here we enjoyed views over the forest to the Coniston fells which looked like they’d received a nice sprinkling of snow.

View to the Coniston Fells over Grizedale Forest tree tops from the summit of Carron Crag
View to the Coniston Fells over Grizedale Forest tree tops from the summit of Carron Crag

We also noticed Helvellyn to the north was completely white!

Adventurer Nic at the trig pillar summit of Carron Crag with a snowy Helvellyn behind her
Adventurer Nic at the trig pillar summit of Carron Crag with a snowy Helvellyn behind her

The Descent – Carron Crag

My technique of choice coming off Carron Crag was the trusty bum shuffle! With my feet firmly back on the ground we continued in a northerly direction on a stony path which led us downhill.

Wide forestry trails in Grizedale Forest
Wide forestry trails in Grizedale Forest

This merged onto a wider track where we turned left to continue heading north through the forest. After 1km we turned left again onto another wide forestry track which led south west.

Our first proper peek at Coniston Water on the Way to the Top O Selside fells
Our first proper peek at Coniston Water on the Way to the Top O Selside fells

Continuing on the main track, we walked until Coniston Water appeared to our right with the fells rising up behind. It was a gorgeous view.

Following a fingerpost signed to ‘Parkamoor’, we turned right off the main track and into dense woodland. Despite the closing in of the trees, the trail was firm and obvious and I actually really enjoyed this section of the route. I love the smell of woodland and it was super strong here.

Approaching the Top O Selside Fells

We passed through a gate which led out of the woodland and onto open terrain.

Adventurer Nic overlooking Coniston Water en route to the Top O Selside fells
Adventurer Nic overlooking Coniston Water en route to the Top O Selside fells

The views to the Coniston fells were now completely unimpeded by the forest as we stood and admired the view from Park Crags.

'Cottage in the Clouds'
‘Cottage in the Clouds’

We continued straight ahead, all the while our eyes were drawn to Top O Selside in front of us. Passing through another gate, we continued over the grassy trail which led to Parkamoor House ‘the cottage in the clouds’ which is a beautiful ‘off grid’ cottage which appears available to rent.

We passed through another gate and followed the trail to the right as it skirted around the base of Top O Selside along it’s western flank.

View back towards the cottage from the flanks of Top O Selside
View back towards the cottage from the flanks of Top O Selside

We looked behind us to appreciate the beauty of the cottage from the opposite side, together with the trail that had led us to this point.

A post in the ground marked the left turn required for us to start heading towards High Light Haw.

A grassy path led uphill and then forked right to head south. At this point in the walk the trail becomes rather boggy and indistinct in parts as it undulates towards the higher ground.

We stopped for a cheese and pickle sandwich on a couple of rocks beside the trail here.

Looking up to High Light Haw
Looking up to High Light Haw

After lunch we kept following the trail south, ultimately peeling off the path when we had High Light Haw in our sights.

The Summit – High Light Haw

View towards The Old Man of Coniston and Coniston Water from High Light Haw
View towards The Old Man of Coniston and Coniston Water from High Light Haw

The summit of High Light Haw was simply beautiful.

The views were stunning. Not only did the Coniston Fells look fantastic, but the triangular summit of Harter Fell looked charming.

View towards Harter Fell from High Light Haw
View towards Harter Fell from High Light Haw

Black Combe rose to mark the most southerly point of Copeland.

View towards Black Combe from the summit of High Light Haw
View towards Black Combe from the summit of High Light Haw

I could also see all the fells around Beacon Tarn and down to Blawith Knott and Burney which was one of my favourite Outlying Fells walks of 2020.

James Forrest approaching a cairn on High Light Haw
James Forrest approaching a cairn on High Light Haw

We passed a cairn on the way towards Low Light Haw and followed the trail down to the col between the two outlying fells.

James Forrest hiking towards Low Light Haw
James Forrest hiking towards Low Light Haw

There were plenty of faint paths to follow but we mainly judged it by eye and weaved our way through the bracken and heather to reach the summit of Low Light Haw.

The Summit – Low Light Haw

Low Light Haw summit cairn
Low Light Haw summit cairn

The summit of Low Light Haw was marked by a cairn and the view was very similar to that of High Light Haw as the tops are a mere stones throw away from each other.

Views from Low Light Haw
Views from Low Light Haw

It was here that we observed a pack of hounds participating in a nearby hunt.

We descended down to the south west in the direction of Brock Barrow. The summit of Brock Barrow is enclosed by a circular stone wall.

Passing through a gap in the wall to Brock Barrow
Passing through a gap in the wall to Brock Barrow

There are many gaps in the wall. We simply picked a gap, stepped through and made our way to the summit.

The Summit – Brock Barrow


Many people bagging the Outlying Fells of Lakeland seek out Wainwright’s tops, others are happy with the true summits of each fell (the highest point). In this case we bagged the highest point but the Wainwright summit can be seen in the photo below.

View to the Wainwright summit of Brock Barrow
View to the Wainwright summit of Brock Barrow

We headed down from the summit in a southerly direction in order to pick up a path which led through a substantial gap in the wall.

Gap in the wall on Brock Barrow
Gap in the wall on Brock Barrow

We then followed the trail down through bracken to a crossing point of Caws Beck.

Crossing Caws Beck
Crossing Caws Beck

We picked up the trail on the other side and hiked alongside a wall.

Even from here, the Consiton fells commanded our attention. The scene was very autumnal in the foreground and wintery in the background as we looked across at Low Light Haw.

Views with autumn in the foreground and winter in the background
Views with autumn in the foreground and winter in the background

At the wall corner, the trail continued to head north towards Top O Selside.

James walking towards Top O Selside
James walking towards Top O Selside

We followed a variety of sheep trods which varied in quality as we continued north over undulating terrain until we reached the cairned summit of Top of Selside.

James Forrest walking towards Top O Selside
James Forrest walking towards Top O Selside

The Summit – Top O Selside

The last fell of the day always feels super special to me as the sunlight tends to be low and really magical. I had a real moment as I sat on the edge of the summit cairn.

Adventurer Nic on the summit of Top O Selside
Adventurer Nic on the summit of Top O Selside

I breathed in deeply with the winter sun kissing my cheeks and really felt happy to be outdoors in my beloved Lake District.

Top O Selside views to the Coniston fells
Top O Selside views to the Coniston fells

Top O Selside Descent

For the descent of Top O Selside, we headed off piste through tufty grass aiming for the path crossroads around three quarters of a kilometre away to the north.

Adventurer Nic on the descent of Top O Selside
Adventurer Nic on the descent of Top O Selside

At the cross roads we went straight on towards the woodland in a north easterly direction. It was very wet underfoot here but we just about kept our feet dry hopping over the deeper sections of bog and puddles.

The wet trail towards Grizedale
The wet trail towards Grizedale

We passed through a gate and continued walking through the woodland to the north east.

James Forrest entering the woodland section of the descent
James Forrest entering the woodland section of the descent

At the next trail junction we turned left and then went straight on at the next crossroad which was almost immediate.

At the next T junction we turned right and then immediately forked left onto a small path through the woodland.

James Forrest taking the smaller path
James Forrest taking the smaller path

At the next two crossroads we went straight on and then retraced our steps back to the car from here.

Wrapping Up

What next? Heughscar Hill and Dunmallard Hill beckoned. These would be my next two Outlying Fells.

About the Author

Photo of Adventurer Nic on a Loch in the Scottish Highlands

Adventurer Nic is a Munroist, Wainwright ‘Compleator’ and is hiking her local Outlying Fells of Lakeland in the wake of the corona virus pandemic. Let her know what you thought of this post by dropping her a comment.

Great Worm Crag, Hesk Fell and The Pike

Green Crag in the Lake District National Park

Route Introduction

Great Worm Crag, Hesk Fell and The Pike are three hills included in Alfred Wainwright’s Outlying Fells of Lakeland book. They are situated in the south west of the Lake District National Park. This route card suggests a great route for someone peak bagging the Outlying Fells of Lakeland.

Adventurer Nic walked this route on Monday 21st September 2020. These were Outlier numbers 87, 88 and 89 of 116 for Nic. Here, she explains how you can bag these outlying fells too.

Great Worm Crag, Hesk Fell and The Pike Route Stats

Fells: Great Worm Crag (427m), The Pike (370m) and Hesk Fell (477m)

Total Distance: 16.7km / 10.4miles

Total Ascent: 660m / 2,150ft

Approx Walk Time: 6.5 hours

Grid Reference Start: SD 171977

Great Worm Crag, Hesk Fell and The Pike Route Report

The Lead Up

It had been almost a month since my last walk on my project ticking off the Outlying Fells of Lakeland. Potter Fell was my last route and I was ready to tick some more off the list.

Ian Baines

In the week prior to the walk, my good friend Ian Baines contacted me to say that he and his wife Helen and son Samuel were going to be up in the Lake District and would love to join one of my Outlying Fell walks. I jumped at the chance! It would be a special walk because Ian was the person who had kindly let me borrow his Outlying Fells of Lakeland book as a planning resource for my peak bagging and to share the summits of a handful of the fells with him would be an honour.

We discussed the ideal distance, around 15km, and I looked at the fells I had left and we agreed that a round of Great Worm Crag, The Pike and Hesk Fell would be ideal. We set the date and met at the Devoke Water Car Park on the road between Ulpha and Eskdale Green on a bright Monday morning.

The Ascent

As we greeted each other at the cars, Ian asked if we could extend the route to incorporate Green Crag. Helen hadn’t yet hiked Green Crag, which is a 488.7m Wainwright just to the north of Great Worm Crag. Of course I said yes! It was a while since I’d hiked it myself and I’d never approached it from this angle before. It would only add three kilometres to the overall route so it seemed like a great idea.

Junction close to the start of the Great Worm Crag, The Pike and Hesk Fell walk
Junction close to the start of the Great Worm Crag, The Pike and Hesk Fell walk

We started walking to the north east along a track and took the right hand fork when it split. The track led to a farm at Birkerthwaite. We skirted around over a stile to head east into a field which soon led to pathless rough ground.

Helen stepping over the stile by the farm
Helen stepping over the stile by the farm

We made our way around the scattered crags, heading through the gap between Great Crag and Little Crag before gaining high ground between the Rowantree Beck and Highford Beck.

Skirting around Great Crag
Skirting around Great Crag

As always with these types of DIY routes, sheep trods appear and disappear along the way, luring you into thinking you’re on a trail, but they never last. Sheep and humans clearly have different intentions in the fells! We had wonderful views to Green Crag in the hazy sunshine of this late September day. As the gradient flattened out we hooked left to face the fell, heading for a gap in the crags on the south eastern side of Green Crag.

Ian and Samuel ascending Green Crag
Ian and Samuel ascending Green Crag

We navigated the final couple of craggy sections from east to west onto the summit. It was surprisingly hot for a late September day and we were all in our t-shirts on the top.

The Summit – Green Crag

Views from the summit of Green Crag
Views from the summit of Green Crag

After some refreshments we retraced our steps through the topmost crags and then headed for the col between Green Crag and White How over spongy ground.

Ian and Helen on their way to White How
Ian and Helen on their way to White How

Conversation turned to linguistics, which happened to be the subject I’d studied at University and a career specialism for Helen. We also discussed the book ‘The Very Hungry Caterpillar’ as Samuel had a collection of the books in all the languages of the world.

Views from White How
Views from White How

We soon reached the summit of White How which was marked by a small cairn. Then we descended to the col between White How and Great Worm Crag. We approached our first Outlying Fell of the day from east to west.

En route to Great Worm Crag
En route to Great Worm Crag

We initially passed the true summit of Great Worm Crag, instead heading for the large cairn at the end of it’s plateaued top.

Ian walking back from the large cairn to the true summit
Ian walking back from the large cairn to the true summit

The Summit – Great Worm Crag

But it was the smaller cairn that marked the true summit. So we back tracked to it to take some photos before continuing our walk.

View to Green Crag and Harter Fell from Great Worm Crag
View to Green Crag and Harter Fell from Great Worm Crag

I particularly enjoyed the view back to Green Crag and Harter Fell, but the view to the Devoke Water fells was equally impressive.

We surveyed the route ahead and picked out Hesk Fell and The Pike to the south. I love discussing route options with friends. It’s always interesting to hear different considerations and we agreed to head to The Pike next.

View to The Pike and Hesk Fell
View to The Pike and Hesk Fell

Leaving the summit we walked down to the road over pathless ground, crossing the top of Freeze Beck and following the boundary down to the road.

Ian marching out the 1km road section
Ian marching out the 1km road section

After just over a kilometre on the road and after crossing Crosbythwaite Bridge, we turned right at a fingerpost signed to Holehouse Bridge. Here we passed a pair of donkeys that were almost hidden in the long grasses.

Donkeys on the ascent of The Pike
Donkeys on the ascent of The Pike

We headed uphill along the right of way beside a fence, passing through a gate half way up the fell.

Then we met a pair of gates. We could only assume the sheep channelled Houdini a lot in this area and required extra measures to keep them contained!

Samuel and Helen passing through the double gates
Samuel and Helen passing through the double gates

As we reached 300m we met a wall and followed it south all the way to the summit of The Pike.

Ian, Samuel and Helen ascending The Pike, with Hesk Fell behind them
Ian, Samuel and Helen ascending The Pike, with Hesk Fell behind them

The Summit – The Pike

I absolutely loved the view down to the Duddon Valley from The Pike. We paused for more refreshments looking down over Rainsbarrow Wood to the Duddon River.

View into the Duddon Valley
View into the Duddon Valley

It was joy to appreciate the fells on the other side of the river that I’d hiked back in June – Stickle Pike and Caw stood out in particular.

View towards Caw
View towards Caw

Hiking the outlying fells of lakeland has truly given me a greater understanding of the Lake District National Park landscape. I find it a lot easier to pick out summits these days and Ian is a great help when it comes to understanding a skyline as he’s been hill walking and peak bagging for so many years.

A selfie on The Pike
A selfie on The Pike

We left the summit of The Pike and followed the boundary all the way to a wall junction at around 350m on the approach of Hesk Fell.

Curious Herdwick sheep between The Pike and Hesk Fell
Curious Herdwick sheep between The Pike and Hesk Fell

We crossed using the stone stile in the wall. This was under the close supervision of a bunch of socially distanced Herdwick sheep!

From here we made a beeline for the summit of Hesk Fell to the north west.

The Summit – Hesk Fell

The view back towards The Pike
The view back towards The Pike

Our final fell of the day was here and we admired the views from the rather flat summit.

The Baines Family on the summit of Hesk Fell
The Baines Family on the summit of Hesk Fell

I realised how thankful I was to have met such lovely people through Instagram and peak bagging as we started to reflect on how much we’d all enjoyed the day.

The Descent

The Baines Family descending Hesk Fell
The Baines Family descending Hesk Fell

We descended over pathless ground to the north almost to the wall corner before following the boundary down to the Woodend Lane.

Reaching the lane at the bottom of Hesk Fell
Reaching the lane at the bottom of Hesk Fell

This led us to the main road, which in turn led us back to the car park.

Wrapping Up

Back at the cars, we had a good look at Ian’s awesome Munro diary which he’d had printed with accompanying photographs before going our separate ways.

My next Outlying Fells wouldn’t be ticked off until December due to my Walk Home 2020 adventure and the subsequent COVID-19 lockdown. But it would be the Top O’Selside Fells and Carron Crag that would be next up on the peak bagging agenda.

About the Author

Photo of Adventurer Nic on a Loch in the Scottish Highlands

Adventurer Nic is a Munroist, Wainwright ‘Compleator’ and is hiking her local Outlying Fells of Lakeland in the wake of the corona virus pandemic. Let her know what you thought of this post by dropping her a comment.

Potter Fell and Brunt Knott

View from the Potter Fell walk
Gurnal Dubs on the Potter Fell route
Gurnal Dubs on the Potter Fell route

Potter Fell and Brunt Knott Route Introduction

Potter Fell is a walk featured in Alfred Wainwright’s Outlying Fells of Lakeland. The original route takes in four outlying tops in the south-east of the Lake District National Park, including Brunt Knott and Ulgraves. This route is fantastic for anyone peak bagging the Outlying Fells of Lakeland.

Adventurer Nic walked this route on Sunday 30th August 2020. These were Outlier numbers 83 to 86 of 116 for Nic. Here, she explains how you can bag these outlying fells too.

Potter Fell and Brunt Knott Route Stats

Fells: Nameless Summit 1262′ (395m), Brunt Knott (427m), Nameless Summit 1266′ (390m) and Ulgraves (333m).

Total Distance: 14km / 8.68miles

Total Ascent: 503m / 1,650ft

Approx Walk Time: 5 hours

Grid Reference Start: SD 471983  

Potter Fell and Brunt Knott Route Report

The Lead Up

Earlier that week I hiked Burney, Blawith Knott, Tottlebank Height, Wool Knott, Yew Bank and Beacon Fell.

After a tough week tracking my boyfriend James on his world record attempt – a continuous self-supported hike of the Wainwright fells in 14 and a half days, I was ready for a good hill day.

I arranged to walk with my good friend Katie and we met in Staveley Mill Yard.

Adventurer Nic with Katie
Adventurer Nic with Katie

The Ascent

We joined Main Street and turned left to pick up the footpath that leads over the bridge across the River Kent.

The slim footpath close to the beginning of the Potter Fell walk
The slim footpath close to the beginning of the Potter Fell walk

Once across the river we turned right to walk along the river bank before taking the first left along a slim footpath.

Passing between the two buildings and leaving the track through the gate
Passing between the two buildings and leaving the track through the gate

Passing between two buildings we headed through the wooden gate to walk north-east through the woodland.

Pretty countryside views on the Potter Fell ascent
Pretty countryside views on the Potter Fell ascent

Exiting the woodland trail through a gate we joined the tarmac road to walk uphill for just under a kilometre. Views over countryside were very pretty on our right.

The track leading down to the farmhouse
The track leading down to the farmhouse

At the finger post, we followed a tyre-track style trail to the east. The parallel tracks led down to a beautiful farmhouse where we were greeted by a pair of African geese.

African geese at the farmhouse
African geese at the farmhouse

Through the beautiful farmhouse garden, we crossed the stream and through the bottom gate, which led over slushy grassy ground. Keeping the wall on our right as it turned, we went through another gate and headed left.

View over the wall
View over the wall

Following the wall on our left we walked uphill. Over the wall, the fields were such a bright vibrant green. We went through the gate and followed the trail to the right, keeping the wall on our right.

Looking behind us on the ascent of Potter Fell
Looking behind us on the ascent of Potter Fell

As the wall turned sharply to the right, we left it and followed the faint path to continue uphill.

The faint path towards the first summit
The faint path towards the first summit

At the highest point of the pass we peeled off to the right to reach the summit of the first fell.

The Summit – Nameless Summit 1262′

Views from the first summit
Views from the first summit

This nameless summit could be described as a south top of Brunt Knott, which is clearly visible in the distance thanks to the trig pillar on top.

Adventurer Nic on the summit of the first nameless top of Potter Fell
Adventurer Nic on the summit of the first nameless top of Potter Fell

As is tradition, I nickname nameless summits with the name of people I’m with at the time of ascent. So this is now officially ‘Marston Moor’ for my friend Katie. Not to be confused with the actual Marston Moor, site of a battle in the English Civil War in 1644!

Following the wall towards Brunt Knott
Following the wall towards Brunt Knott

We left the summit to the west and walked back to the wall before following it north.

Over the stile
Over the stile

At the wall corner, we went over a stone stile in the wall and followed the trail north to the summit. But not before we stopped to eat lunch and set the world to rights!

The Summit – Brunt Knott

The summit trig pillar of Brunt Knott
The summit trig pillar of Brunt Knott

The summit of Brunt Knott is marked by an Ordnance Survey trig pillar. We enjoyed views across the Lake District, the closest hills were the outlying fells that make up the Bannisdale Horseshoe. In the distance we enjoyed views to the Scafell range and the Langdale Pikes. Closer to us were the fells of the Kentmere Horseshoe.

View to the Bannisdale Horseshoe from the summit of Brunt Knott
View to the Bannisdale Horseshoe from the summit of Brunt Knott

We chatted to a solo walker who’d hiked over from Kendal on the summit before leaving to the east following a faint path down to Black Beck. The path here became intermittent.

Curious sheep on the descent of Brunt Knott
Curious sheep on the descent of Brunt Knott

From here there are a few boundaries to pass over as carefully as possible. The first is a barbed wire fence, but there is a panel that has no barbed wire on it which is the best place to cross. The next has a handy stile.

Stile on the Potter Fell route
Stile on the Potter Fell route

After crossing the stile we followed the wall (keeping it on our left), passing beautiful purple heather on the hillside.

At the highest point of the pass we peeled off to the right to reach the summit of this nameless top of Potter Fell.

The Summit – Nameless Summit 1266′

The summit of this nameless top of Potter Fell is marked by a couple of large stones. I nicknamed this one ‘Katie Knott’.

The summit of the second nameless top of Potter Fell
The summit of the second nameless top of Potter Fell

We left the summit to the east and made our way to the next boundary wall. We crossed at the lowest part of the wall successfully and walked over pathless grassy terrain to the next wall. Crossing this wall at it’s lowest point too, we continued east to the final wall crossing of the day.

From here we approached the summit of Ulgraves from the south-west.

The Summit – Ulgraves

The summit of Ulgraves was unmarked, the highest point of the fell was simply a raised outcrop.

View from Ulgraves
View from Ulgraves

It did have a lovely cairn to the north though which was worth a visit for the lovely views down into the Longsleddale valley.

The Descent

Views as we left the summit of Ulgraves
Views as we left the summit of Ulgraves

We left the summit to the south east, over the easiest ground. However we were soon stopped in our tracks by a herd of 36 cows!

Cows on the descent of Ulgraves
Cows on the descent of Ulgraves

They were boisterous and kept gallopping from side to side very erratically. We paused and watched them quietly, in order to gauge our next steps. I’ve encountered cows countless times on my walks and I’m quite sensitive and receptive to them.

The steps I go through in my mind are –

a) Where is my escape route? In this case there was a low barbed wire fence to our left and the fell we’d just descended to our right.

b) Stand still – walking (or worse) running, could either spook the cows or encourage them to chase. More often than not, when you stand still, they will also stand and watch you calmly. Watch out for mums and calves specifically as they can be very protective of their young.

c) Consider the best way around them – on this occasion, we kept to the high ground before giving them a wide berth – taking a wide loop to the gate at the bottom of the field that we needed to pass through.

d) Check your friend is OK….. I noticed them first and said to Katie – “Erm….how are you with cows?” Her face was a picture!

Avoiding the cows
Avoiding the cows

We made our way to the gate to safety and followed the trail to the south.

The gate to safety from the cows!
The gate to safety from the cows!

Gurnal Dubs came into view and we made our way to the stile beside the track and followed the track anti-clockwise around the water.

Over the stile to Gurnal Dubs
Over the stile to Gurnal Dubs

The Swim

As we reached the western end of the tarn a woman was exiting via the stone steps after a swim.

Gurnal Dubs
Gurnal Dubs

We got chatting and I encouraged Katie (a regular wild swimmer) to don her swimming costume for a dip.

Katie taking a short swim in Gurnal Dubs
Katie taking a short swim in Gurnal Dubs

Katie always tries her best to get me in the water but I’m a ‘dry land only’ kinda gal! After Katie dried off we continued following the trail to the west.

We passed across the dam at the bottom of Potter Tarn and continued west.

Crossing the dam
Crossing the dam

The trails led down to the farm that we walked by earlier in the day and we re-traced our steps back to the car from there.

Potter Tarn
Potter Tarn

Wrapping Up

What next? Great Worm Crag, The Pike and Hesk Fell beckoned. These would be my next Outlying Fells.

About the Author

Photo of Adventurer Nic on a Loch in the Scottish Highlands

Adventurer Nic is a Munroist, Wainwright ‘Compleator’ and is hiking her local Outlying Fells of Lakeland in the wake of the corona virus pandemic. Let her know what you thought of this post by dropping her a comment.